Day 12 - Taklakot
28th June 2018: We woke up at about 12:30 am. Though we slept only 3-4hrs but due to the cozy bed, comfortable room temperature my sleeping quota was full. When we woke up, it was raining heavily outside. Taking our luggage we came to our own igloo. I wore all my sweaters along with the raincoat. Thanked Divyanshi silently, for sharing your rain-coat. It helped me a lot.
Kailash Yatra wiped out the concept of lunch-dinner-breakfast timing. We took our dinner approx 7:30 to 8:00 pm & our bed tea at 12:30am. 😆 Kabindra was already there, waiting for me outside our igloo. Yesterday he gave me his mobile for charging, first I handed over it. Then as per the instruction of ITBP personnel & our LO we left the KMVN camp & gathered on the road towards Lipulekh pass. Kabindra did not have any raincoat. I felt pity for him. There were approx 4-6 ITBP personnel with us. They asked us to make a queue & after cross-check with yatri list, allowed us to start. The road was muddy & slippery. Kabindra asked me to hold his hand. Every time the pony alerted us to go side of the path. It was pitch dark outside only torch used by yatris made some light on the way. I offered my head torch to Kabindra to wore it on his head. As I had to depend totally on him, I thought it will be better to hand over the torch to him. After the muddy road, the path was covered with pebbles. Too tough to walk comfortably as it was still raining. We saw some shortcuts, but I asked Kabindra not to take any shortcuts. Also ITBP personnel stood on the entrance of shortcuts so that porters or yatris not able to take it.
After 1 Km there was a rain shed. We all gathered there. Our LO instructed us to go ahead who did not opt the pony. The pony opted yatris would start after 1:30 hrs. The pony Opted yatris behaved like we, who did not opt the pony, wasted their precious time when we wanted to take some rest there. Due to rain & cold weather, I was too much tired. So I wanted to take rest for just 2 mins.
When we started our journey, actually I was shivering due to cold. I feel the reason later. On our way, there was a spring which flowed along our way. Due to the darkness, it was not possible for me to avoid the water. So my feet were wet. I personally hate the dampness. This was the main reason for my shivering. Also, my woolen gloves were wet due to rain.
I took a halt. Put my wet woolen gloves in my bag. Wore the leather gloves in left hand & asked Kabindra to wore other gloves in his right hand as he held me in his left hand. So our one hand was quite warm. We took some chocolate & he suggested me to take some almonds also. I felt it was not possible for me to hold anything in my hand. I gave him the bag & asked him to take chocolate as well as almonds & nuts. He put all these things in his pocket. My hands were so numb that even I was not able to hold the chocolate bar. He was so helpful, that he helped to eat those chocolates.
We started walking. Every time I asked him, Did we able to reach Lipulekh pass before 6 AM? Every time he assured me 'we had enough time. We would reach there easily.' He never left me alone, always hold my hand.
Most probably it was 4:00 am we can view the fading daylight. We just walked, walked and walked. There were only 4-6 ft wide road and the other side was high mountain though not too much high. The road was quite better than starting.
We could view the snow cladding mountain quite far away. The view was amazing, but I did not take a single snap at that moment. I was just trying to take snaps inside my brain.
After 3-4 Km, the sky was clear. It was dawn. All the surrounding mountains were clearly visible. Also the route. The road was also not wanted to lay down, he (why not 'she' ⁇), wanted to sit. so the inclination was above 60° Some time approx 75°+ I felt some breathing problem. Felt the same described by Wrick during our Sikkim journey that every time I felt, that it was not enough of oxygen when I breathe. I smelt camphor. But after some time, I found that I lost the camphor. It was fallen and I was not able to feel it due to my numb hands.
I was able to walk only a few steps at a time & asked Kabindra many times to stop & take rest. I never sit down as I know if I sat down, my body would be lost heat & my legs would not work anymore.
Just Before 2 Km of Lipulekh pass, the road was too much tough. I looked might be exhausted, some ITBP jawans asked me to take the pony. They offered me a pony also. But I was stubborn No Pony. This was the God's blessing to me, that everyone behaved me as my friend. So porters asked me to take their help. But I felt Kabindra is the best & I did not need any others' help till he was with me.
When We were approx one and a half km away, I found that I was the last one of all the yatris. I was not panicked, but proud that I was the only girl who did not take the pony. (Though later on Some ladies claim the same. But I did not find any other...Might Be I was the last person, so not able to see the first 59 😈 )
At last, we reached the Lipu pass. I came to know that our other group members reached their approx 2hours earlier & shivering. The Chinese were not reached there still. After reaching there I met Soma who hugged me tightly. I felt the pure congeniality that melted my heart. I was asked to give Kabindra his share of 50% money along with Rs. 200/- as tips. He should be awarded much more as he was worthy for that. He did a fabulous help. The money was not worthy of his selfless help. I thanked him a lot. My eyes were filled when I said bye to him.
After saying Goodbye to Kabindra, I just turned & saw Mr. Munish who collapsed. It was so suddenly & unexpected that I was shouted loudly with fear. Arvind, one of the yatri, asked help to ITBP doctors who was standing quite far away. Doctors came & did their best for him. They had their Oxygen cylinder with them which was helpful at that condition.
Some yatris along with porters humming that the Chinese reached there. Here Chinese authority handover the 1st batch to the Indian authority aka ITBP & we 3rd batch was allowed to go Chinese territory under the Chinese supervision. Except for yatries, no Indians were allowed to go down. Only some porters from Indian side went down to carry the luggage from the Chinese side.
We were at the top of Lipulekh pass. The 1st batch yatris came in a queue as the road was very narrow, only one person could go side by side. We gave side to them as they were coming up and the path was quite ascending. The 1st batch people started to cross us. They informed us everything was fine & no need to worry, the receiving bus was standing there within 100 meters. We welcomed them with the heartiest smile & they greeted us with a cheerful voice. At last, Their guide also came up & said bye to the 1st batch.
Then only we yatris asked to make a queue & went down. Then I found there was huge snow on our way. I had crossed the ice-covered part very carefully. Just after that, I noticed one yatri from the 1st batch was carried by ITBP jawans on a stretcher in lying down condition. He was severely ill (the effect of high altitude sickness).
After crossing the person, we were shown the green signal to go down. On our way, we met some the Chinese Army personnel who welcomed us with a smiling face. After crossing max 100 meters we found 3 Chinese buses was waiting there. We were asked to show the passport & asked to board the bus.
As per our Visa entry, Enakshi was next to me. We boarded & took the seat side by side. The bus seat was comfortable & spacious not like our state transport buses And also has a large clear window. There was a clock inside the bus which was showing the time 10:45. Yes, Chinese time was GMT+8 so it was 2:30 ahead of IST.
After starting the bus journey, we came to know there was a mild landslide on our way which was the main cause of late. There was some halt on our way due to road clearance. The surrounding view was awesome. First 2-3 km, the mountains were too high similar to our Indian side & then when we entered Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) on the Tibetan Plateau, the highest region on earth, the mountains were not sky kissing. Though the terrain was hilly but gave you the feeling that it was drawn by someone, the same mountain that a child can draw in their drawing book usually. It lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, so no rain & not too cold also.
We reached first the Taklakot customs office(12:45pm (CST)) But came to know that at first, we needed to go local passport authority center to register our fingerprint. Again we boarded the bus & reached the authority center. It was a simple store like office containing 2 computers & one scanning machine. Two Chinese people were sitting there. We were asked to make a queue as per our visa entry. But the fingerprint machine was a lazy machine who was not able to register peoples fingerprint at a time or might be this was Chinese product so it was quite expected 😈 .
Anyway, we came to know that there was no toilet nearby location. It was approx 12 hrs. Everyone was searching for the option of the toilet. Thank God it was China (aka TAR) otherwise people use the roadside area. As my name came after 15 people, after completing the process, I went with Enakshi & some other ladies, nearby hotel, for the toilet. Our lady guide Shobha already talked to the hotel. So they did not make any objection.
We had distributed a bottle of drinks (some orange pulp) & an apple for refreshment, (as per 1st batch suggestion & donation). It really refreshed me. After the process of the fingerprint, we were instructed to go again customs Ministry office. We again went there at about 2:10pm (CST), where our passport was collected & our handbags were checked.
We reached our Taklakot hotel at about 3:30pm (CST). This time twin sharing basis room was allotted. Shruti had shared a room with me. There was the supply of hot water in the hotel but not in our room. So I just wash my clothes & washed face. Then We were asked to take lunch.
We came to know here timing was very important & if you were late, you would not get the food. Our Dining space was in the next building. So I went there and took the lunch. I came to know from others conversation, that nowadays, Indian cooks were provided along with Indian foods. Previously Chines food was given. There was the arrangement of Hot water, attached bath such facilities were given, but yatris never stopped to complain.
The lunch menu contains the rice, sabji, papar along with apple & salad. Dal & sabji was awesome. Then I came back to our room. After lunch, a short briefing was conducted by Chines guide. The name of the person is Suraj which is his Indian name. We were told that he will be the contact person during our tour in Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). We should not take any pictures of any man-made structure, not any car, building or administration office. In the hotel room, the only basic facility would be provided.
I came to my our room & went to Soma's room for taking bath as there was hot water available. Then we decided to go to the nearby market. This is a small city containing a number of shops on both sides of the road. there was every type of shops from clothes to general stores to gift shops to hardware to the vegetable shop to fish shop to the restaurant.
Kailash Yatra wiped out the concept of lunch-dinner-breakfast timing. We took our dinner approx 7:30 to 8:00 pm & our bed tea at 12:30am. 😆 Kabindra was already there, waiting for me outside our igloo. Yesterday he gave me his mobile for charging, first I handed over it. Then as per the instruction of ITBP personnel & our LO we left the KMVN camp & gathered on the road towards Lipulekh pass. Kabindra did not have any raincoat. I felt pity for him. There were approx 4-6 ITBP personnel with us. They asked us to make a queue & after cross-check with yatri list, allowed us to start. The road was muddy & slippery. Kabindra asked me to hold his hand. Every time the pony alerted us to go side of the path. It was pitch dark outside only torch used by yatris made some light on the way. I offered my head torch to Kabindra to wore it on his head. As I had to depend totally on him, I thought it will be better to hand over the torch to him. After the muddy road, the path was covered with pebbles. Too tough to walk comfortably as it was still raining. We saw some shortcuts, but I asked Kabindra not to take any shortcuts. Also ITBP personnel stood on the entrance of shortcuts so that porters or yatris not able to take it.
After 1 Km there was a rain shed. We all gathered there. Our LO instructed us to go ahead who did not opt the pony. The pony opted yatris would start after 1:30 hrs. The pony Opted yatris behaved like we, who did not opt the pony, wasted their precious time when we wanted to take some rest there. Due to rain & cold weather, I was too much tired. So I wanted to take rest for just 2 mins.
When we started our journey, actually I was shivering due to cold. I feel the reason later. On our way, there was a spring which flowed along our way. Due to the darkness, it was not possible for me to avoid the water. So my feet were wet. I personally hate the dampness. This was the main reason for my shivering. Also, my woolen gloves were wet due to rain.
I took a halt. Put my wet woolen gloves in my bag. Wore the leather gloves in left hand & asked Kabindra to wore other gloves in his right hand as he held me in his left hand. So our one hand was quite warm. We took some chocolate & he suggested me to take some almonds also. I felt it was not possible for me to hold anything in my hand. I gave him the bag & asked him to take chocolate as well as almonds & nuts. He put all these things in his pocket. My hands were so numb that even I was not able to hold the chocolate bar. He was so helpful, that he helped to eat those chocolates.
We started walking. Every time I asked him, Did we able to reach Lipulekh pass before 6 AM? Every time he assured me 'we had enough time. We would reach there easily.' He never left me alone, always hold my hand.
Most probably it was 4:00 am we can view the fading daylight. We just walked, walked and walked. There were only 4-6 ft wide road and the other side was high mountain though not too much high. The road was quite better than starting.
We could view the snow cladding mountain quite far away. The view was amazing, but I did not take a single snap at that moment. I was just trying to take snaps inside my brain.
After 3-4 Km, the sky was clear. It was dawn. All the surrounding mountains were clearly visible. Also the route. The road was also not wanted to lay down, he (why not 'she' ⁇), wanted to sit. so the inclination was above 60° Some time approx 75°+ I felt some breathing problem. Felt the same described by Wrick during our Sikkim journey that every time I felt, that it was not enough of oxygen when I breathe. I smelt camphor. But after some time, I found that I lost the camphor. It was fallen and I was not able to feel it due to my numb hands.
I was able to walk only a few steps at a time & asked Kabindra many times to stop & take rest. I never sit down as I know if I sat down, my body would be lost heat & my legs would not work anymore.
Just Before 2 Km of Lipulekh pass, the road was too much tough. I looked might be exhausted, some ITBP jawans asked me to take the pony. They offered me a pony also. But I was stubborn No Pony. This was the God's blessing to me, that everyone behaved me as my friend. So porters asked me to take their help. But I felt Kabindra is the best & I did not need any others' help till he was with me.
When We were approx one and a half km away, I found that I was the last one of all the yatris. I was not panicked, but proud that I was the only girl who did not take the pony. (Though later on Some ladies claim the same. But I did not find any other...Might Be I was the last person, so not able to see the first 59 😈 )
At last, we reached the Lipu pass. I came to know that our other group members reached their approx 2hours earlier & shivering. The Chinese were not reached there still. After reaching there I met Soma who hugged me tightly. I felt the pure congeniality that melted my heart. I was asked to give Kabindra his share of 50% money along with Rs. 200/- as tips. He should be awarded much more as he was worthy for that. He did a fabulous help. The money was not worthy of his selfless help. I thanked him a lot. My eyes were filled when I said bye to him.
After saying Goodbye to Kabindra, I just turned & saw Mr. Munish who collapsed. It was so suddenly & unexpected that I was shouted loudly with fear. Arvind, one of the yatri, asked help to ITBP doctors who was standing quite far away. Doctors came & did their best for him. They had their Oxygen cylinder with them which was helpful at that condition.
Some yatris along with porters humming that the Chinese reached there. Here Chinese authority handover the 1st batch to the Indian authority aka ITBP & we 3rd batch was allowed to go Chinese territory under the Chinese supervision. Except for yatries, no Indians were allowed to go down. Only some porters from Indian side went down to carry the luggage from the Chinese side.
We were at the top of Lipulekh pass. The 1st batch yatris came in a queue as the road was very narrow, only one person could go side by side. We gave side to them as they were coming up and the path was quite ascending. The 1st batch people started to cross us. They informed us everything was fine & no need to worry, the receiving bus was standing there within 100 meters. We welcomed them with the heartiest smile & they greeted us with a cheerful voice. At last, Their guide also came up & said bye to the 1st batch.
Then only we yatris asked to make a queue & went down. Then I found there was huge snow on our way. I had crossed the ice-covered part very carefully. Just after that, I noticed one yatri from the 1st batch was carried by ITBP jawans on a stretcher in lying down condition. He was severely ill (the effect of high altitude sickness).
After crossing the person, we were shown the green signal to go down. On our way, we met some the Chinese Army personnel who welcomed us with a smiling face. After crossing max 100 meters we found 3 Chinese buses was waiting there. We were asked to show the passport & asked to board the bus.
As per our Visa entry, Enakshi was next to me. We boarded & took the seat side by side. The bus seat was comfortable & spacious not like our state transport buses And also has a large clear window. There was a clock inside the bus which was showing the time 10:45. Yes, Chinese time was GMT+8 so it was 2:30 ahead of IST.
After starting the bus journey, we came to know there was a mild landslide on our way which was the main cause of late. There was some halt on our way due to road clearance. The surrounding view was awesome. First 2-3 km, the mountains were too high similar to our Indian side & then when we entered Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) on the Tibetan Plateau, the highest region on earth, the mountains were not sky kissing. Though the terrain was hilly but gave you the feeling that it was drawn by someone, the same mountain that a child can draw in their drawing book usually. It lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, so no rain & not too cold also.
We reached first the Taklakot customs office(12:45pm (CST)) But came to know that at first, we needed to go local passport authority center to register our fingerprint. Again we boarded the bus & reached the authority center. It was a simple store like office containing 2 computers & one scanning machine. Two Chinese people were sitting there. We were asked to make a queue as per our visa entry. But the fingerprint machine was a lazy machine who was not able to register peoples fingerprint at a time or might be this was Chinese product so it was quite expected 😈 .
Anyway, we came to know that there was no toilet nearby location. It was approx 12 hrs. Everyone was searching for the option of the toilet. Thank God it was China (aka TAR) otherwise people use the roadside area. As my name came after 15 people, after completing the process, I went with Enakshi & some other ladies, nearby hotel, for the toilet. Our lady guide Shobha already talked to the hotel. So they did not make any objection.
We had distributed a bottle of drinks (some orange pulp) & an apple for refreshment, (as per 1st batch suggestion & donation). It really refreshed me. After the process of the fingerprint, we were instructed to go again customs Ministry office. We again went there at about 2:10pm (CST), where our passport was collected & our handbags were checked.
We reached our Taklakot hotel at about 3:30pm (CST). This time twin sharing basis room was allotted. Shruti had shared a room with me. There was the supply of hot water in the hotel but not in our room. So I just wash my clothes & washed face. Then We were asked to take lunch.
We came to know here timing was very important & if you were late, you would not get the food. Our Dining space was in the next building. So I went there and took the lunch. I came to know from others conversation, that nowadays, Indian cooks were provided along with Indian foods. Previously Chines food was given. There was the arrangement of Hot water, attached bath such facilities were given, but yatris never stopped to complain.
The lunch menu contains the rice, sabji, papar along with apple & salad. Dal & sabji was awesome. Then I came back to our room. After lunch, a short briefing was conducted by Chines guide. The name of the person is Suraj which is his Indian name. We were told that he will be the contact person during our tour in Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). We should not take any pictures of any man-made structure, not any car, building or administration office. In the hotel room, the only basic facility would be provided.
I came to my our room & went to Soma's room for taking bath as there was hot water available. Then we decided to go to the nearby market. This is a small city containing a number of shops on both sides of the road. there was every type of shops from clothes to general stores to gift shops to hardware to the vegetable shop to fish shop to the restaurant.
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