Kathmandu

After a long exited waiting, the D day came at last. It was 21st Dec 2018. We started our journey from Noida Sec-62 at about 12:30pm. Our flight was 5:00pm. Vaishali, Amit and I took the auto and reached nearby Vaishali metro station. We took the Airport express metro to reach Indira Gandhi International Airport Terminal 3. It took approx 1 hour to reach the Airport.

This was my first international travel. I came to know from the internet that we have to go through the immigration checking. Vaishali so existed as she was getting her first stamp in her passport. We were through customs with a minimum of formalities.

After the formalities, we strolled around the airport departure lounge. We found a different brand of alcohol, chocolates and some souvenir shops. Amit selected some alcohol for himself and decided he would collect it on our return.

After half an hour of waiting, we came to know that our flight was scheduled a one hour delay. We just seat and doing some chit-chat. We boarded in our JetAirways flight at about 5:45pm. It was dark outside. So it was not possible to get the view of outside. After an hour, complementary tiffin was provided. I preferred the non-veg sandwich and muffin.

We reached Tribhuvan International Airport at Kathmandu at 7:45pm. We had to fill up a form which is mandatory for non-Nepalese passport holders. After filling the form we had to go through the immigration process.

After departing from the Airport, our destination was the Thamel area which is a tourist hub. There were lots of pre-paid taxi option or private taxi/cab operators inside the airport who offered to go to Thamel but the rate was too high. We decided to go outside the airport. Just outside the airport, there was a staircase. Just take the staircase and reached outside of the airport.

Just outside the airport, we got a cab driver who asked Rs.500/- Nepali currency(1 NC= 1.6IC) which was equivalent to Rs.300/- IC. We took the cab and within 15 mints reached near Thamel.

After Reaching Thamel we started to find out hotel as we did not a pre-booked hotel. It was about 9:00pm. We asked 4-5 hotels who were asked above 2000 bucks(Nepali). At last, we reached a hotel named by "Buddha Garden" on the roadside who asked Rs.1800/-(Nepali). Vaishali and I started bargaining and the person agreed. It cost us 1500/- Nepali per day (12pm- to 12pm). There were 3 single bed and a clean bathroom. No TV. I don't prefer TV as usual. However, Amit missed the TV.

After refreshing, we decided to go outside and took a stroll as well as to make dinner. It was approx 10:00pm. We came to know in Nepal Friday is half-day and Saturday is Holiday. So Govt. offices follow this and late night party is available on Friday night.

We just strolled there and found a restaurant which is run by local people. Actually, there was a lot of restaurants who show their menu card just outside the door. So you have a chance to check the menu as per your pocket and taste. After entering the restaurant, he asked to take seat either rooftop or on the first floor. We decided to go roof top. But due to chilly wind flow, we took our seat under a shaded area on the rooftop. Vaishali ordered thupka and I ordered non-veg momo. The taste was good but not awesome.

After completing the dinner, we decided to take a stroll. All the shops of near by area were closed but all the roads were decorated with colorful light. It gave the feeling of any hilly area of India. No feelings of Foreign Country(!!)

Next day (22nd Dec), we decided to visit Kathmandu different Darbar Square. After taking tea, we decided to go Pashupatinath temple which takes 10-15 mints from Thamel. We went to the Ratna Park bus stop and took the local bus for Pashupatinath temple. There is a small bus just like our tempo traveler. The bus ticket was Rs 15/- (Nepali). We did not have Nepali currency, but the bus conductor accepted the Indian 100 rupees bill and gave the changes in Nepali currency.

When we reached Near Pashupati Nath Temple, they asked us to put our shoes off. There was a large queue. After kept our shoes, We also queued for entering the temple. We noticed there was a long line and some people entered the temple without following the line. We thought might be those people took some paid service. We were a fool. Actually, if you follow the line you can circumambulate the temple. Otherwise, you just enter the temple and take a visit to deity and come back.

After waiting for two hours in the queue we came to know the real meaning of the queue. Anyway, we saw the deity from a distance. I collected a Nepali one rupees coin from temple, premises. I took it as a collection.

Inside the temple, the photoshoot is strictly prohibited. The temple is an excellent exhibition of wooden curving. There were lots of metallic curvatures also. Some sculpture of human beings, as well as dragons, were there which is an awesome example of creativity. Though this is a Hindu temple, it seemed to me that Chinese or Tibetian style. Actually, this temple is built in the Nepalese pagoda style of architecture. The two-level roofs are of copper with gold covering. The temple resides on a square base platform with a height of 23m 7 cm from base to pinnacle. It has four main doors, all covered with silver sheets. This temple has a gold pinnacle (Gajur). The Sacrosanctum or the main idol is a stone Mukhalinga with a silver yoni base bound with the silver serpent.

The lingam is one meter high and has faced in four directions. These faces represent various aspects of Shiva; Sadyojata (also known as Barun), Vamadeva (also known as Ardhanareshwara), Tatpurusha, Aghora and Ishana (imaginative). Facing West, North, East, South, and Zenith respectively representing five primary elements namely earth, water, air, light, and ether.

After PashupatiNath temple, we decided to take lunch as it was already 11:45am. We came to the main road and crossed the road. We found some "dhaba" type restaurant and decided to take lunch. We ordered Nepali thali which contained Rice, Dal, vegetable and papad. All the food was unlimited. After lunch, we decided to go Boudhanath stupa.

It is located about 11 km from the center of Kathmandu, the stupa's massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal. Bus fare 15NC per head.

The Buddhist stupa of Boudha Stupa dominates the skyline; it is one of the largest unique structure's stupas in the world. The influx of large populations of refugees from Tibet has seen the construction of over 50 gompas (Tibetan convent) around Boudha. As of 1979, Boudha Stupa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The entry fee for SAARC was 150 NC. Vaishali bought some cloth piece for puja purpose and put the cloth on one of the gompas. Then through the staircase, we reached the mandapa. We took lots of pictures there.

Then we decided to go to Kopan Monastery and booked a cab of NC 300/-. The road towards the monastery was awesome. It gave us the bird view of Kathmandu city. Unfortunately, the monastery was closed and they even not permitted us to make entry inside the premises.

We felt sad. However, there was no option to come back to the town. It was approx 4:30pm. So we decided to book our Everest heli-tour for the next day. We found lots of tourist agents to book the heli-tour. It asked Rs.21K for three of us.

This was Vaishali's dream to perform this tour and I had less interest. However, we all decided to book the tour for next day morning. We came to know from the internet that Buddha air provided the best option. So we decided to opt for Buddha air. But The agent told us if we opt "Shree/ ShriAirways" who asked 500NC less. As we did not the idea of "Shree/Shri", so we decided to reserve Buddha Air. The agent told us to take a seat on the left side. Also, some cab driver would be picked us from our hotel tomorrow morning 4:30am whose charges was included in the package. There was an option to exclude the charge( He charged 1000NC for the cab).

After booking the tour package, we decided to stroll along the road of Thamel. It was the similar narrow lane in old Delhi. After some time we entered inside a restaurant and ordered some Pokora (for Vaishali and Amit) and I had ordered non-veg MOMO.

We just strolled some more time. And then decided to take dinner early as we had to wake up early morning. For dinner, we went to the same restaurant as yesterday and ordered Thupka. Though Amit felt it was awesome, it seemed to me so..so.

After sunset, it was cold. We went to the bed approx 9:30pm by setting multiple alarm.

Next day (23rd Dec), We wake up approx 3:30am and got ready. Our cab driver was on time. We reached again Kathmandu airport, but this time domestic area. There was a queue in front of Buddha airways window. We asked 3 left side seat, but she was able to give us only two.

We boarded into Buddha air. It was the same as any normal Airbus. But only the window seat was occupied. It started at approx 7:00am. Within a few minutes, the large white hilly area was visible. The lady crew distributed some toffee.

The lady crew started to describe the visible ranges' name. In the beginning, on the distance, we found Mount Ganesh Himal, Langtang range, Shisha Pangma. As the Helicopter flies further popular peak Dorjelakpa and snow-capped Phurbi Gyachhu were visible. When we went further we saw a virgin mountain (never climbed) called Chhoba Bhamaree 5934 Meters, then comes the holy mountain Gauri Shankar.

Your flight keeps moving over the Sherpa homeland and see Mt. Melungtse (7024 meters), Chugimago Mount (6398 meters), Mount Numbur (6955 meters). Later on came Karyoluong (6 512 meters), then Mt. Cho Oyu above 8 201 meters above sea level which is the seventh highest mountain in the world.

Finally, Gyanchhungkhang Mount with its heights of 7960 meters, next on the right pyramid shaped Pumori Mount (7162 meters) is visible then Nuptse Mount (7856 meters) Now we were already closer to Mount Everest, the top of the world 8848 meters ( 29,002 feet). The Nepalese call it "Sagarmatha" means the top/head of the world. But Tibetans call it "Chomolungma" means mother goddess.

On return back we again got the same view but on the right side and reverse order. It was an awesome view which beyond the description by any camera or the word. We took as many photos as possible. The pilot asked us to come cockpit for clear view one by one. It was also a rare experience for me as this was the first time I went to the cockpit.

We came back again the airport approx 8:30am and took our pre-booked cab to reach the Kathmandu Square. At the entry gate the ticket was Rs.150NC. If you want to visit the Darbar Square, inform the person, They will suggest you create a pass for the same just showing only a passport size photo with the passport.

Kasthamandap-(pavilion of wood) the three-roofed building is one of the oldest in the square and holds rare images of the god Gorakhnath. Sadly Kasthamandap was completely destroyed in the 2015 earthquake

Trailokya Mohan Narayan temple: was the tallest in the square and dedicated to Vishnu. Trailokya Mohan Narayan was completely destroyed in the 2015 earthquake

Kumari Bahal (House of the Living Goddess) past the entrance a small square holds intricate wooden carvings that decorate the Kumari's residence.

Taleju Temple one of the squares most beautiful temples but one that's the restricted view from a distance only. Shiva-Parvati Temple which is adorned with images of Shiva and his consort Parvati.

Basantapur Tower though damaged in the 2015 earthquake still stands and under reconstruction. Gaddi Baihak is the white building that dominated the southern portion of the square. It is due to be torn down and rebuilt in the future.

Visit one of the many street vendors beside the Kumari house in an open square selling trinkets, singing bowls and other keep stakes (bargain hard!)

Walking directly south of Thamel's Narshing Chowk along Thamel Mark you'll pass many souvenir stalls. Keep going south until you come to a junction with a road sharply turning the left while straight ahead you'll see Thahiti Stupa..Surrounding the stupa is a small fenced garden. Outside the fence, there's a local vegetable market and at night a tea and food-stall market.

This 15th-century stupa is said to be have been built over a hiti to hide it due to the fact that it produced gold coins. Across from the stupa is the Nateshwar temple.

From Ason Chowk, With six streets leading into Ason chowk it can be a bit overwhelming to get your bearings at first. One navigation location is the towering 3-story Annapurna Temple. Across from the Annapurna temple is the 2-story brass roof of the Ganesh temple. In front of it is the mysterious celestial stone fish surrounded by a small stone wall. Directly south is a narrow street filled with metalware. Take this street and continue on south to Jana Bahal.

After walking down from Ason Chowk past all the metalware stores you'll come to a junction with a 3-story brick and wood Newari temple to your right (Luchhubhulu Ajima). This is area is Jana Bahal. Just past the temple to your right again is the remains of archway now filled with local stores. Behind it is the impressive Seto Machchhendranath temple. Enter inside this courtyard in from of the temple to see a small gilded statue of a woman. It's said this statue is Maya Devi, though many say it's far too European to be her. Inside the temple, itself is the impressive Seto Machchhendranath statue. From Ason Chowk head directly south towards Indra Chowk. Halfway between to the two popular chowks is a small junction. Jana Bahal is to the right.

We spent approx 3-4hrs in Darbar Square. After that we decided to go Bhaktapur durbar square. We took the local bus again. There was a direct bus for Bhaktapur durbar.

After reaching them we found the ticket price was too costly. It was Rs.500/(NC) per head. Anyway we took the ticket and entered the area.

It was just narrow road just like any villege road with lots of stall both side of the road. We started walking. The famous spots in Bhaktapur durbar  are:

55 window palace: The Palace of Fifty-five Windows (Pachpanna Jhyale Durbar) was built during the reign of the Malla King Bhupatindra Malla who ruled from 1696 to 1722 AD and was not complete until 1754 AD during the reign of his son Ranjit Malla.

Vatsala Temple: Vatsala Temple was a stone temple dedicated to goddess Vatsala Devi that included many carvings. It was most famous for its silver bell, known to local residents as "the bell of barking dogs" as when it was rung, dogs in the vicinity barked and howled. The colossal bell was hung by King Ranjit Malla in 1737 AD and was used to sound the daily curfew. It was rung every morning when goddess Taleju was worshiped.

Statue of Bhupatindra Malla: The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla in the act of worship can be seen on a column facing the palace.

Nyatapola Temple: Nyatapola in Newari language means five stories - the symbolic of five basic elements. This is the biggest and highest pagoda of Nepal ever built with such architectural perfection and artistic beauty. The temple's foundation is said to be made wider than its base. The temple is famously known as pancha tale mandira.

Bhairava Nath Temple: The Bhairab Nath Temple is dedicated to Bhairava, the most fierce manifestation of Lord Shiva.

Golden Gate: The world famous Golden gate of Bhaktapur. "Lu Dhowka" (The Golden Gate)" is said to be the most beautiful and richly molded specimen of its kind in the entire world. The door is surmounted by a figure of the Hindu goddess Kali and Garuda (mythical griffin) and attended by two heavenly nymphs. It is embellished with monsters and other Hindu mythical creatures of marvelous intricacy. Percy Brown, an eminent English art critic and historian, described the Golden Gate as "the most lovely piece of art in the whole Kingdom; it is placed like a jewel, flashing innumerable facets in the handsome setting of its surroundings." The gate was erected by King Ranjit Malla and is the entrance to the main courtyard of the palace of fifty-five windows.

Lion's Gate: The magnificent and beautiful gate was built by artisans whose hands were said to have been severed upon completion by the envious Bhadgoun king so that no more of such masterpieces could be reproduced.

Mini Pashupati Temple: The holy god Shiva temple, the mini Pashupati, is believed to be built right in front of the palace after a Bhadgoan king dreamed of it.

Erotic elephants temple — On the left just before the entrance way to the square is a hiti (water tank). A few steps before that but on the other side of the road, just 100m before the entrance way, is a tiny double-roofed Shiva-Parvati Temple with some erotic carvings on its struts. One of these shows a pair of copulating elephants, in the missionary position: Kisi (elephant) Kamasutra.

Ugrachandi and Ugrabhairab — Near the main gate at the west end, one can admire a pair of multiple-armed statues of the terrible god Ugrabhairab and his counterpart Ugrachandi, the fearsome manifestation of Shiva’s consort Parvati. The statues date back to 1701 A.D. and it is said that the unfortunate sculptor had his hands cut off afterward, to prevent him from duplicating his masterpieces. Ugrachandi has eighteen arms holding weapons, and she is in the position of casually killing a (Buffalo) demon. Bhairab has twelve arms and both god and goddess are garlanded with necklaces of human heads.

Rameshwar Temple — The first temple one notices on the right of the gate is Rameshwar, in front of Gopi Nath Temple which is a Gum Baja style. It is an open shrine with four pillars and it is dedicated to Shiva. The name Rameshwar comes from that it was Ram as an incarnation of Vishnu who had the original temple of Mahadev built at Rameshwar Temple in South India.[4]

Badrinath Temple — A small temple west of the Gopi Nath Temple locally known as Badri Narayan is dedicated to Vishnu and Narayan.

Gopi Nath Temple — Two roofed pagoda style is the Gopi Nath Temple, attached to Rameshwar Temple that houses the three deities Balaram, Subhadra and Krishna. It is difficult to see the deities as the door remains mostly closed. The temple is also known as Jagannath, which is another form taken by Vishnu. Dwarka, also known as the Krishna Temple, houses three deities, left to right: Satyabhama, Krishna, and Radha.

Kedarnath Temple — The terracotta made Shikara style temple is the Kedarnath (Shiva) Temple.

Hanuman Statue — The entrance to the National Art Gallery is flanked by the figure of Hanuman, the monkey god, who appears in Tantric form as the four armed Hanuman Bhairab. Hanuman is worshiped for strength and the devotion.

Vatsala Devi Temple — Directly in front of the palace and beside the king’s statue and next to the Taleju Bell is the Vatsala Devi Temple. This Shikhara style temple is completely constructed in sandstone and is built upon a three-stage plinth, and has similarities to the Krishna temple of Patan. It is dedicated to Vatsala Devi, a form of the goddess Durga. The temple was originally built by King Jitamitra Malla in 1696 A.D. The structure that can be seen today, however, is reconstructed by King Bhupatindra Malla and dates back to the late 17th or early 18th century. Behind the temple is a water source called Dhunge Dhara and next to it stands the Chayslin Mandap.


There was two seperate musium also. But we skipped them. After roaming a lot, we decided to go back.


As it was approx 4:30pm, the local people told that after 5:30pm, it would be tough to get local bus. So we decided to skip Nagarkot.

We took direct bus for Thamel. There were lots of traffic jam. It took approx 1 hr. to reach the Thamel. We just roamed some time in Ason market & decided to go to our room.

On our way we went to the same tour agent for tomorrow's Pokhra bus booking. I already asked multiple agent regarding the bus fare. There are 3 type of Buses. 1. Local Bus 2. Tourist bus fare 700-900NCNC. 3. Tourist AC bus fare 1100-1500NC.

We opted the second type of bus. The person told us we need to reach the bus stand on or before 6:30am. Though the person gave us the seat number, however I was pretty sure, the seat number was not worthy which was proven latter.

We went to bed quite early as we had to wake up morning next day.
Kathmandu Nepal Pokhra

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